River Bend Lodge, Addo Elephant Park – Jeremy Williamson

Ideally located immediately opposite the entrance gates to Addo Elephant National Park Main Camp gates, is the privately run, Five Star, River Bend Lodge. Set in a 14,000 ha private concession within the greater Addo Elephant National Park, from this venue one is able to experience Addo in superb luxury.

The Addo Elephant National Park is South Africa's 3rd largest National Park - originally proclaimed in 1931, in desperation to save the last remaining cape Elephant, with possibly only 11 of these large pachyderms left in that area. What a success story. There are now in excess of 500 and in order to broaden their genetic diversity, some bulls from the Kruger National Park have relatively recently been introduced. With the decimation of the elephant herds in the 1800's and early 1900's, with primarily the larger tuskers being sought after, those remaining genetically produce progeny with smaller tusks whilst some have none. So with these new Kruger Park elephant's genes, the genetics could in time return to normal. This is the same species Loxodonta africana we all know and love, as the genetics were originally modified by man's intervention, I believe this to be a sensible and acceptable correction of the malady.

One of the Kruger Park bulls

Other animals have also been brought back to Addo from local extinction, one of the most significant being the African lion - Pantera pardus, thus escalating the Park to Big Five status, almost a prerequisite for international guests. So convenient too, no need now for those wishing to only visit the Cape to have to travel further. The area is slowly getting back to what it must have been like before man's destruction of the wildlife.

The Park is presently 180,000 ha with plans to enlarge the protected area to 264,000 ha progressing well. This Greater Addo area includes St Croix and Bird Islands, just off the coast, these islands host the largest breeding colony of the Cape Gannet and second largest breeding colony of African Penguin. With this diversity of biomes in the area, with hosting the Big 7, elephant, rhino (both black and white) lion, leopard, buffalo, whales and the great white shark and then a very large diversity of antelope species as well, the Addo area has become a rewarding wildlife destination. Some specials too and some very threatened, such as the Addo flightless dung beetle ! Beyond Addo there are a number of Private Game Parks, many already removing the dividing fences from neighboring properties and creating a vast protected area, a huge plus for biodiversity ..and the area is Malaria free too !!

The breakfast and luncheon veranda venue

At River Bend Lodge all the accommodation is in very comfortable chalets, slightly away from the Main Lodge area, affording privacy,

 all the chalets are air conditioned as well as having ceiling fans, each with expansive views out into the reserve.

In the rooms there is a mini bar, satellite TV, loads of space, comfortable chairs with the bathrooms en-suite with separate bath and shower, some also have outdoor showers whilst the Honeymoon Suite has a private plunge pool.

 Then the comfort and soaps and... The luxury suites are made up of two adjacent units with inter-leading doors if required, ideal for families. Set in the grounds of a farmstead of old, there is a beautiful established garden with some large trees which attract a number of diverse bird species.

The Lodge is fenced, entrenching it’s suitability as an ideal venue for children and so easily accessible, being only some 45 minutes drive from Port Elizabeth. Although Five Star, the Lodge is comfortable and casual, there is a TV lounge “for sport enthusiasts”,

lovely deep verandas where one may sit and relax, watching the passing parade,

 more lounges, all with super comfortable couches and  chairs,

 a lovely loft library

and then a sheltered pool area, again with comfortable recliners. A place to relax between those game drives!

Lana and I entered the concession just before 14h00 (check-in time) and drove the 3,5 kms to the Lodge gates. On the left just before River Bend Lodge is a water-hole right next to the road, as we drove up, a herd of approx 80 elephant were there drinking and doing elephant things. With the herd milling around and our cameras safely ensconced in their cases in the boot, a wonderful photo opportunity missed. As we watched, the matriarch led the herd away and into the bush – we were not to see them again.

A warm welcome from Tariro Chaonwa, a welcome drink, check in, she then took us on a tour to familiarise Lana and I on the Lodge facilities, with easy access to our chalet, we settled into our room,  with cameras now ready, a quick nap? Lunch is not included on the first day, although Tariro offered to arrange for the kitchens to make somethingg should we be starving -  and so instead to the gourmet high tea on the main Lodge veranda before departure on the Game drive.

 There is a convenient water-hole just beyond the fence, lovely, tea, cake and delicacies with a view, but unfortunately no visitors today. In the distance one could see some plains game, so with anticipation we prepared for the afternoon game drive. This was to be on the River Bend Lodge concession. Speckboom - Portulacaria afra is relatively abundant amongst dense stands of other low woody shrubs, with the grass component rather poorly developed. The Speckboom has been the saving grace of the area, as it is favored as browse by so many of the resident species from black rhino to kudu to just so many of the thriving populations.
Our guide was determined for us to have a better elephant sighting than the one both parties (ourselves and a Honeymoon couple) on the vehicle, had experienced on the way in, so we spent some of the afternoon searching for this elusive herd that had melted away. There were however some really wonderful opportunities to see some of the general game in reasonable numbers, in good light.

Yellow mongoose

Eland herd

Our game drive and sightings were all in this elongated narrow strip between the fence / R342 and the Zuurberg Mountains which is rather inaccessible in parts and to where the elephant had retreated, returning to their hiding place. We were fortunate to have seen them at the water-hole on arrival. This is not really a problem for the Lodge though, as the game drives can alternatively be conducted inside the main Addo Elephant Park, where normally excellent sightings of elephant may be enjoyed. We did however find a lone elephant bull who obligingly posed for us.

Pale chanting Goshawk

Juvenile Blue Crane

Back to the Lodge and a divine dinner. It is in the culinary department that the Lodge excels.Imagine after a delicious cauliflower soup to have as one of the starter choices; Parma Ham, crispy egg, pea mousse and Truffle dressing. The "Crispy Egg", was intriguing, this was a 'boiled' ? egg cooked with a soft center, with a delicious golden, crispy crunchy coating on the outside. Want the recipe? An early Easter surprise. I have been practicing upping the status of my modest breakfast egg.

What a delicious line up on the Menu for mains. Roast Sirloin, my choice, done to rare perfection and so tender, but there was a Moroccan spiced Line Fish or even a Mushroom Risotto mit trimmings. The dessert was a beautifully presented caramelised Apple Tart, vanilla Struzzel and Creme Anglaise. There was also a selection of cheeses too. Well considered wines as an accompaniment were suggested, an excellent recommendation. A delicious and beautifully presented meal in a fine convivial dining room, decorated with period furniture and with service of a high standard... then to bed, to the comfortable suite and slumberland.

An early start and we were on a mission, this time to find lion. These felines have recently been introduced and are yet to multiply in this sector of the Park. They will. We did not find them. I am inclined, when visiting our game parks, to appreciate the animals as they are discovered, to sit and watch and appreciate them and then move on.

The lovely early morning light offered some super opportunities, we were fortunate to be able to snatch the odd photograph. Yes, antelope, jackal, baboon, birds and such are rather high on my list of animals to see and photograph – especially in that golden light as the sun peeps over the horizon.

Take each sighting as it is presented, it could well be the most pleasant.

Leopard tortoise

Black backed Jackal

Back to the Lodge for breakfast, a rather delightful affair looking out over the bushveld and beyond. I am sure with more time we would have been able to see more of the species in the area, with a trip to Addo Elephant Park possibly a bonus, from this venue. This Lodge would be an excellent choice for those wanting five star accommodation and superb meals vs staying at the National Park accommodation and driving ones-self. Beautifully appointed with excellent service, guided game drives, well priced, this convenient luxury Lodge is highly recommended.

Photographs : Jeremy and Lana Williamson

Thanda Tented Camp – Thanda Private Game Reserve – Jeremy Williamson

A long awaited visit to the Thanda Tented Camp in the Thanda Private Game Reserve just north of the World renowned Hluhluwe Imfolozi Park,  just happened to coincide with Lana and my 39^th Wedding Anniversary. What a way to be able to spend such a special time, it was the only availability they had this month, such is the popularity of this more affordable Thanda venue, that suited us just fine – Anniversary in the Zululand Bushveld.

With our vehicle parked at the gate, we were collected in an open Land Rover Game Drive vehicle and off to the camp where we were met by our host the camp manager, with hand-towels to freshen up after the 3 hour drive from Durban. Tented camp? Well – Yes, the sleeping accommodation is tented, whilst the main guest facilities are under thatch.   

 A reception area where guests can arrange for their batteries to be charged – Ah, Yes, there is no real electricity at this camp. Here we get away from some of the mod-cons we take for granted, and do without air-conditioning, fans, hairdryers, kettles in the rooms for tea and the profusion of lights so intrusive in this bush environment. The Lodge provides the hot tea water in the rooms. There is light, primarily in the form of paraffin lanterns, then there is limited electric lighting in some of the public areas, well in the bar and kitchen, and then conveniently in the tents, side lights next to ones bed and a chandelier in the bathroom – good move. I do like the lanterns and candles strategically placed with dinner, quite romantic with the characterful lighting and the fire beyond, in the boma.

The Main public area has a convivial bar, 

a curio shop , (well priced too)

 a large dining room 

High tea in the dining room

...and then outdoors has a central lapa or boma area, 

 adjoining a seriously large swimming pool. I guess this is needed as an escape for all guests,  from that mid-day heat of Zululand. 

 The tents can be rather warm, particularly if there is no breeze.

With a 14h00 arrival and high tea at 15h30, comprising of an assortment of tasty savoury, salad and even a delicious cake, we were ready for our game drive departure at 16h30. Iced water for guests to take with them at the reception area, we headed for the Land Rovers. We met our guide Simo and tracker Nonhlanhla, fellow guests and soon out into the bush, after some wildlife. This is the peak of summer, with the grass I guess as high as it gets and the bush as dense as it can be, all making the viewing of the animals a tad more difficult. The joy of visiting a Private Game Reserve at this time of year is that the vehicles are not restricted to the road network and license to approach closer for a clear sighting is such a major boon.

Our guide  found a magnificent bull elephant out there in the bush – we did not manage to get too close to this fella though, was he being a bit belligerent? I would say!  Sensibility prevailed and we let him be. We did get to see a ‘crash”  is it? Of white rhino, five of these magnificent animals together, super sighting!

Number Five hiding out of view here

 Then there were giraffe strategically placed  like telephone poles along our way. 

Don.t you love the eye-lashes?

Another elephant in the distance and not anywhere near a road, so we settled for some zebra,

Sharks supporter?

... impala and even the odd warthog. Darkness, sundowners in the bush, frogs and nightjars calling and to my delight even some fire-flies, like aircraft in the distance with their tell-tale warning beacons flashing.. We don’t get this in Durban!

Our meal that evening was in the dining area (the weather was not conducive to an outdoor meal as there was the odd rain squall about) the chef came to each table and described his fare. A sweet-corn broth for starters, followed by a pan seared chicken breast on puréed  sweet-potato and accompanying vegetables. This followed by malva pudding and vanilla custard, a bit of a South African flair to the meal with that lot, delicious.

The tent of the mid-day heat had tempered, and with the flaps wide open we pulled back the curtains – it’s terribly private out here in the bush – and let the cool evening breeze in.  Menopausal flushes sorted,  we slumbered to the night sounds and there were some good ‘uns too. Early morning I raptured in the sound of a lion calling, and later, by the time we were dressed and on our way to coffee, rusks and departure, the bush was alive with the cacophony of early-birds.

Our Land Rover, full of cheerful guides and guests, headed off along the maze of roads, to I know not where? but our guides did. They headed to where the southern pride of lion had killed a zebra the previous night. Good move, they were still there. With a bit of patience ,the big male appeared and lay down,

 mum followed a while later, bringing her (apparently)  5 month old, two cubs out to pay respects to the old guy and then to have a drink. 

 We were in the perfect spot and they all came past us within meters of the vehicle – glancing rather menacingly up at us as they passed. Guests on the vehicle were tense. I acknowledged them paying their respects, and they then headed for the strategically placed wallow, where they drank their fill from the rather muddy water hole. This left the cubs with rather an angelic dirty countenance.

just look at their extended bellies

 Even the male joined them to slake his thirst.

After our morning drive, it was back to camp and to a rather magnificent brunch, well, a late breakfast with all the right choices to break that fast. I have to recommend their very home-made muesli and it’s accompaniment, a delicious rather “maas like” yoghurt. Then, as there was an almost full camp, chaffing dishes, with the traditional “full house” for breakfast was there for all to help themselves.

Thank goodness the day was to be comfortably cool, we had a delightful relaxing time, then the high tea and wild action for the afternoon.

just the spot to relax

And there was action. Our guests of the previous drives had moved on,  a family of Austrian’s had joined us in their stead. They had spent some time in the Kruger Park area and had unfortunately not seen any of South Africa’s large cats. Well our guides were about to show them.! Yip it was off to find the lion, which we did. They had returned to what was left of the kill. Mum and dad were sleeping off the overindulgence, whilst the two youngsters, although replete, were rather interested in this vehicle load of oglers. 

 A lovely sighting for us all.

Then off to find more cats. We headed north and YES! found two cheetah,  

Brothers on a mission

.. our Austrian friends really were thrilled. A short way on and the trees above erupted in the worst of name calling and gesticulating one had ever heard or seen.  A large troop of monkeys had been treed by no less than a large leopard and were voicing their displeasure and angst. Tracks all about and I really admired how our guide unravelled the trail and followed  it, to find that this wily feline was leading us on a bit. We no sooner took the road around the inaccessible watercourse, than he would double back and purposefully plant his tracks over those of our tyres – almost to say bad luck guys ! We never did get to see him,  but it was exciting and he was terribly close by. We could even smell his marking and them tracks were  so fresh , how our tracker / guide combination read them, showing us all the hardly distinct imprints,  was  so much part of the very exciting experience too.

On the way back to camp we had the good fortune to come upon another ‘crash’ of rhino. Well this was more of a ‘crashing,’  three black rhino high-tailing it in parallel to the vehicle and then away from the spotlight and that noisy iron monster.  Such a special sighting that was!

All this excitement  made us slightly late back at camp, where a host of Zulu Warriors awaited us – they were friendly,  even deciding to show off their dancing expertise. As one after the other outdid the previous,  in a high kicking routine, culminating in a climax of unified shields, spears and skins thumping to the rhythm of the drums. That sound certainly stirs me, I can appreciate what it does / did to the Warriors prior to battle or whatever. So to dinner.  Another fine spread. Again in the dining room due to the weather. Tonight a buffet - and here a choice of meats and a lovely selection.  I noticed that a separate meal was brought for a guest who had specific requirements, big smile there.

This morning we returned to where the leopard had been the previous evening, but to no avail. So a bit of general  game viewing before our departure . 

A most pleasant venue with the prestigious Thanda Main Camp and their Royal Private Villa glimpsed at a distance as we passed them by. Now those two venues are another story entirely.

Thanda Private Game Reserve is expanding and there is the possibility of fences being dropped with a neighbour making this reserve  approx 50% larger. Slowly Zululand is returning to its wildlife heritage of old, this is wonderful news and with responsible land owners as we have with Thanda, the  future can only get better for our fauna and flora here.

The tented camp has a rather lovely private 'Honeymoon suite' with expansive sun deck and plunge pool.

the beautiful rolling hills of Zululand - what a view!

Photographs by Jeremy and Lana Williamson