Samara Private Game Reserve – Eastern Cape

In the Great Karoo, on the plains of Camdeboo, is the vast 27,000 ha Samara Private Game Reserve. Home to some rather interesting and infrequently seen animals – for Lana and I, this was hopefully , to be an especially memorable visit – we had heard so much about Samara.

Well let’s see what happened !  Samara Private Game Reserve with its 5 star Lodges is located some 30 kms south east of Graaf-Reinet  and  250 kms,  (or approximately an 2 hour 45 minute drive) from Port Elizabeth. Here, historically vast herds of Springbok and a wide diversity of species roamed free – to be decimated by the 19^th Centaury hunters,  compounded by the erection of farm fencing.  Well Samara is changing that, expanding their farm size, removing the fences and returning the indigenous wildlife to this fragile area.

Samara Private Game Reserve, is fortunate in having 4 of the country’s 7 Biomes – on the slopes and upper plains of the surrounding hills are the ‘Plateaux Grasslands’ which change to ‘Valley Bushveld / thicket’ as one descends to the plains of Camdeboo. Here we find the ‘Savannah and Nama Karoo’ biomes. It is this lower veld type that primarily led to the demise of the indigenous wildlife, as sheep and even cattle were brought in and found to thrive on the Karoo thickets, especially the sheep,  giving ‘Karoo Lamb’ International recognition  for its quality and unique flavour. One must admire and appreciate the turnaround that Samara’s owners, Mark and Sarah Tompkins have achieved in the past decade and a bit, with the reintroduction of many wildlife species, back to their original habitat.

At Samara, it, in my opinion, is all about the wildlife.  The land has been allowed to rest during the past 12 years, but aeons of veld mismanagement, drought and overgrazing has taken its toll and recovery is and will be slow.  Not so slow though, is the transformation of decrepit farms to an Internationally recognised excellent wildlife destination. 

The relocation and reintroduction of species endemic to the area, and in particular the Cheetah, with Samara’s offered game experience with them, makes Samara a destination of choice. Here we have a family of free ranging Cheetah, now totally independent of man, fending for themselves in the bush , with guests having the opportunity to walk up reasonably close to them, and share their lives, all be it for a brief moment. This is not a petting zoo or quasi rehab centre, it’s the real thing, they are living wild, but tolerate man in reasonably close proximity to a point. The Cheetah are conducting life in the Karoo as their distant ancestors did.  Acinonyx jubatus are classified as vulnerable.  So often Cheetah, in the Private Game Reserves have Lion as a cohabiter (well you have to have the Big 5 and lion is one of them, seems to be a common trend) . What normally happens is that the lion kill the Cheetah – well this does not happen at Samara thankfully, as there are no Lion here.

The Aardvark we saw and followed

Samara has another really incredible draw card, reasonably regular daytime sightings (particularly in winter) of Aardvark , and some of these sightings, with these animals seeming totally unconcerned with the presence of those watching them in awe. It is with respect that one is able to experience the foraging of so elusive and threatened an animal.  The Aardvark, Orycteropus afer is classified as vulnerable.  Destruction of their habitat and persecution has reduced Aardvark numbers significantly. An animal rarely seen in the warmer parts of South Africa, possibly as their ant and termite prey are active all night, thus the Aardvark feed late at night, whereas in the colder parts of the country such as the Karoo and at Samara, the insect activity probably declines late evening, encouraging the Aardvark to start their foraging earlier and are thus more visible.

Many of my colleagues and friends have never seen an Aardvark, I have previously only seen two and that was late at night and only briefly on each occasion.  Let me tell you about this amazing wildlife destination.

Lana and I had driven up from the Port Elizabeth area, the road was good tar and we passed over some rather scenic passes before entering the vast plains of the Great Karoo. Samara is easily found nestled up against the Aasvoelberg with a good dirt road right up to Samara’s Karoo Lodge where Lana and I were to spend the next few days.  An old farmhouse modified to suite guests needs, was where we met the most friendly staff of Samara. Carien welcomed us with warm towelets and a refreshing drink and introduced us to the hospitality of the Karoo. What a lovely comfortable, homely Lodge.

Our ample suite with four-poster bed, was free standing and a little way off in the Lodge grounds. We were warned to be careful, as the Lodge is not fenced and there are animals on Samara that could possibly be dangerous. Well there are Buffalo, Black and White Rhino and Cheetah, so Ok to walk the Lodge grounds during the day, but a Ranger would escort us from and to our Chalet at night.

We prepared for the afternoon guided game drive, cameras and warm clothing, as this part of the World can get quite chilly once the sun sets. 

Then to High-tea, on the lovely wide veranda. Really delectable savoury options, loads of cheeses  and desserts – the individual small milk tarts were particularly good. 

We were fortunate to have a vehicle to ourselves, Tendai was to be our guide  for the next few days. All aboard at 15h30 and we drove a short distance from the Lodge, seeing  a herd of Red Hartebeest before Tendai stopped, clambered out of the vehicle and used a radio scanner to see if he could locate the cheetah, which he had seen in the area earlier that day. A faint signal! We took to the broken terrain on foot, cameras at the ready.  Down into a dry river course,  no signal. On we trudged, the signal strengthened. Anticipation on high.  Eventually we were way out in the veld, when off to our left our guide pointed out Mum Cheetah and her two sub adult cubs.

We slowly walked over to the edge of their ‘comfort zone’ and stopped, cherishing the moment. What amazing an experience this was. Here we were out in the wilds on foot with three fair sized Cheetah lazing in the shade of a karoo shrub, right there in front of us.

The cameras were clicking away nicely as the trio started to move about a bit, from one shady retreat to another. We followed, careful not to get too close and upset the trust that the Rangers had built up between themselves and these wild animals. 

Eventually it was time to leave, in the very far distance I could just make out the vehicle, but it was with an elated gate that we returned to our transport – now that was something really special of a game sighting encounter. Almost unique in game Lodge activities here in South Africa.  Samara you have something exceptional in this particular wildlife experience !

Jeremy photographing Cheetah out in the wilds of Samara

Well what could cap this? We proceeded on our game drive and saw quite a rich diversity of species. Eland, Kudu, Red Hartebeest, Duiker, Oryx, Yellow Mongoose and Zebra. 

Eland cow

Gemsbok or Cape Oryx

We also saw one of the World’s heaviest flying birds, a Kori Bustard (can weigh just over 12kg) proudly striding through the scrub. Then Tendai stopped the vehicle – AARDVARK  he pointed, smiled, then clambered from the vehicle and suggested we join him in seeing if we could get closer to it, it was quite mobile.  Now the Aardvark is quite a wary little fella and with those extended ears and being sensitive to ground vibrations, he was soon aware of our poor endeavours at creeping closer, as we stumbled over the rather rocky scrubby ground. We were not able to approach too close although we followed it for ages, as it sniffed one potential  underground termite source after another.

Our rather shy special Aardvark

 
Tendai suggested he returns to collect the vehicle  and Lana and I continued to follow as speedily as our stubbed toes and twisted ankles would allow.. It then entered a fairly eroded open sandy area and started digging. Had it found a food source?  By the volume of soil being excavated I thought not and decided to approach closer – the digging was like a mini-eruption as the red soil spewed from the orifice of a fast deepening crater and we watched as the thick tail and furiously working back legs disappeared from sight. I would imagine the sand being  forcibly thrust out of the hole, would be an excellent deterrent, flying in the face of some potential predator.   Our Aardvark sighting had come to an end. Quite a spectacular one too.

Almost unbelievable, two incredible lifetime wildlife experiences in one afternoon! By now the sun was starting to settle in the west behind the Aasvoelberg and Tengerai stopped again, clambered from the vehicle and suggested we join him in a drink – a celebratory sundowner. There was quite a warm glow from Lana and I, complementing that of the fiery orb in the sky.

A magnificent ‘bar roll’ was unfurled and the ice chest opened. 

So many options on offer! Lana and I settled for a Sauvignon Blanc wine and our Ranger a coke. Cheers !! Biltong and nuts, then back to the Lodge in the dark. In the spotlight Scrub Hare, Jackal, Spotted Eagle Owl and then the delightful, lamp lit Karoo Lodge.

We returned to our room to find a prepared bubble bath. What a pleasure, as we shed the grime, freshening up on the Charlotte Rhys soaps and changed for dinner. Our Ranger escorted us back to the main building and dinner. The other guests were a largish foreign group, who really could not converse in English, so we were offered a private dinner in one of the anterooms. Beautiful silver and crystal gleaming in front of a glowing fire, we ate fine fare to the accompaniment of the odd glass of wine or two.

What a day !

Private dinner

Good morning. A 06h30 arrival for the usual drinks and rusks. Today we were going to summit the plateau and enjoy the scenic splendours and wildlife on high. Although not much could beat the high of yesterday.

En route to the valley that afforded easier access to the tops of the surrounding hills, we found three Cheetah out on an early morning hunt, striding purposefully  through the Karoo thickets. We admired them for a while, then let them be.   

Sibella - she has been an excellent mum

We saw numerous Kudu, Hartebeest  and some Eland on the way, but none presented good photo opportunities, quite skittish is the general game here.  Samara have cut a road into the side of the mountain, this rather scenic access brought us to the Rooigrass (Themeda triandra grass) plains (plateau) above. 

Mountain Zebra

Mountain Zebra, Eland, Black Wildebeest and Oryx (Gemsbok) were thriving and at home here, we could not get too close, but with the open grasslands with small herds scattered, this must surely be so much like it was here before man and his rifle created havoc to the then numerous herds. Now all we need is for the lower reaches of Samara to have really large herds of Springbok.  

Black Wildebeest AKA White-tailed Gnu

Eland

Cape Oryx AKA Gemsbok

We did not find, but I believe Mountain Reedbuck, Klipspringer  and Grey Rhebuck are also to be seen at these elevated altitudes. And elevated it is, Tendai stopped the vehicle, clambered out and suggested we join him. We followed as he led us through some bush and then down a slope to a massive rock platform hanging over the edge, once vertigo was sorted, I gazed on the most wonderful panorama. The Plains of Camdeboo stretching out forever and the Aasvoelberg  off to our right, all in shades of browns, blue and grey, with a splash of green here and there, spectacular!

Some solar panels were  powering a bore-hole pump deep in the earth with the pipe meandering snakelike to a pan some distance away. I wondered what would happen to the plastic pipe should there be a veld fire. Well apparently due to the type of veld and paucity of cover, fires don’t really get going in this region.   Time for a coffee stop and at another view-site up on high!

Over a rise and a large herd of Eland, knees clicking, came by, what elegant looking antelope and so huge. I guess these are pretty safe from Cheetah, just too large to be prey.

Giraffe, Ground Squirrel, Rock hyrax and a large troop of Baboon were added to our species list as we wended our way back to the luxury of Karoo Lodge, time to relax and then to high tea.   

Ground Squirrel

Actually there was a fair bit of action around the Lodge, baboon hoping for a window to be carelessly left ajar, numerous birds in the Karee bos and close to the Lodge, a well reeded dam was host to a variety of waterfowl such as African Spoonbill, Egyptian Goose, Little Grebe, South African Shelduck and Little Egret. I could have spent time there but the delicious cuisine of High Tea called. High tea was interrupted  slightly in that two large exhibitionist Leopard tortoise were mating on the lawn, much to the delight of the foreign guests.

We explored other areas of Samara on the subsequent game drives, adding Ludwig’s Bustard to our life list and a special sighting of some 25 Blue Crane – our National Bird, all gathered fairly close in some sort of meeting, another species on the Red Data list classified as vulnerable, that Samara has space for. Then on the last morning game drive, another lifer for Lana, when Tendai stopped the vehicle, clambered out and suggested we join him in walking over to a Porcupine, hiding in and amongst the Karoo shrubs. It thought we couldn’t see it, but sharp-eyed Tendai had and what a sighting, early morning, out in the open and close too. We crept up to it, but Porky decided that it should retreat  and made a break for it. It loped away, spines bristling and rattling, probably trying to find a convenient Aardvark hole – we were in the way for it to retreat to the one it had just left.

We left our prickly sighting to its breakfast as we headed for ours. Another species to add, a pair of Steenbuck. What a set of horns this little guy had. 

Coffee, rusks and Amarula, sigh ! standing out there on the Plains of Camdeboo for our morning drive comfort stop, the mountains at my back and the wide open space ahead. Clear blue skies, early sun casting its special warm glow to the scene, my eyes follow a Greater Kestrel hovering above searching for prey, and then a cloud of dust in the distance slowly approaches. My mind wanders and thousands upon thousands of Springbok in their striped tan and white livery came foraging by. Some pronking in that stiff-legged, arched back fashion with long white mane  displayed from that secretive pouch on their backs,  Antidorcas marsupialis, marsupium - pouch. One is allowed to dream a bit and my dream could be that of the owners of Samara, the Tompkins, that one day vast herds of Springbuck, would be returned to this so special a place.

May I be so bold as to suggest that one should read Eve Palmers “The Plains of Camdeboo”

The Karoo is a vast semi-desert region that extends across parts of the Western and Eastern Cape provinces of South Africa. This environmentally important area is the largest ecosystem in the country and is abundant in wildlife, vegetation, and ancient history. “The Plains of Camdeboo” is a celebration of this remarkable landscape. At first encounter, the Karoo may seem arid, desolate and unforgiving, but to those who know it, it is a land of secret beauty and infinite variety. Samara is joyfully so much a part of it.

Photographs by Jeremy and Lana Williamson

Kuzuko Lodge – Eastern Cape

Kuzuko Game Reserve is a private concession within the malaria free Addo Elephant National Park in the Eastern Cape Karoo, and is approximately two hours drive from Port Elizabeth. This malaria free 15,000 hectare private section of the greater Addo Elephant National Park, has the Big five along with Cheetah. In order to protect the vulnerable cheetah and buffalo from the lion, this Game Reserve has three large fenced enclosures. Kuzuko’s Cheetah are habituated enough to allow guests to view them from a reasonably close distance on foot. They are not tame but simply tolerate guests. These 'Cheetah walks', allow one to get to achieve quality photographic opportunities close to the Cheetah.



The Addo Elephant National Park is the third largest National Park in South Africa, the Park has expanded enormously, it has a wide biodiversity and varied topography and landscapes. Stretching from the semi-arid Karoo area here in the north around Darlington Dam and the Kuzuko Conservancy, over the rugged Zuurberg Mountains, through to the Sundays River valley, then south to the coast between the Sundays and Bushman’s River mouths, Addo Elephant National Park is approximately 180 000 hectares (444 700 acres) in extent.



Kuzuko Lodge is set on the top of a hill, with panoramic views of the Karoo stretching away in the distance. This is a modern brick under thatch lodge, with 24 free-standing luxury air-conditioned Chalets sited on the ridge, offering uninterrupted views, all close to the main Lodge facilities. The comfortable Chalets have private bathrooms en suite, a view deck and are well appointed.

We turned off the R400 onto the Park access road, through some electric entrance gates and we were immediately amongst the most amazing display of Coral Aloe, Aloe affra. We had missed the flowering of the larger Aloe ferox, their racemes withering in the Koroo sun, but this floral display was really stunning.



We drove on past a quizzical springbok or two, Lana saw a ground squirrel scuttle away. Getting interesting. Check-in was at two  o’clock and we arrived at the Karoo farmhouse reception area on time. Our guide for this visit, Adolph, was there waiting to take ourselves and luggage to the Lodge. Into the Toyota Land Cruiser game viewing vehicle we bundled, then off through another electric gate, into the Kuzuko Game Reserve proper. Some blue crane and waterfowl at a dam, hartebeest, black wildebeest and the game viewing had commenced.

We were welcomed at the Lodge with a refreshing rock shandy, wiped away the road grime, then ushered onto the deck for an introduction to that view, magnificent, then to our room. Hardly time to collect our thoughts, camera and cold weather gear, before we were back to the main building for 'High Tea'. One should not expect a high tea of the ilk of the Savoy in London at our South African Game Lodge venues who have latched onto the terminology – rather expect something savory, something sweet, along with some refreshments.



Kuzuko Lodge brought our serving to the table, quite a delicious spread. A generous portion of freash open ham sandwiches, samosas, tarts and kebabs for the savory, with chocolate cake squares and a coconut slice or two for those with a sweet tooth. Delicious!

Time for the game drive. We met a delightful couple, Neil and Amy at the vehicle – this game drive was going to be interesting.

In the Kuzuko Game Reserve the lion and general game are to be found in the main part of the Game Reserve, with a large fenced camp for the valuable Buffalo, and another for the rather vulnerable cheetah. It is unwise to have cheetah and lion competing within a single fenced area. It seems inevitable that the lion eventually manage to kill the cheetah in such an environment. Adolf was going to show us as much of the the wildlife as he could during our limited time at Kuzuko.

Off to our right on the hillside and in rather dense foliage, was an elephant herd. No roads could take us near to them, so on we went. We arrived at the Buffalo enclosure fence and there they were, waiting patiently, as one of the staff was pitch forking Lucerne to them over the fence from the back of a bakkie. He was feeling a tad vulnerable as two male lion were approaching.



We distracted the lion, by approaching them for a photo shoot, they obliged, then off we went into the Cheetah enclosure to see if we could find those cats.


 
We found sign of the Cheetah's previous meal, a Kudu, then numerous alert kudu, but not a cheetah to be seen. We reluctantly closed the gate behind us and departed for the Lodge.

The route from the Cheetah enclosure was through a rather scenic gorge where we found a jackal that had started foraging early. Some Plains Zebra and Black Wildebeest were seen before arriving to a friendly welcome at the Lodge. Refreshed we ambled back to the Lodge for dinner. Drinks at the bar, then to dinner. We asked that the two separate tables that were laid for the 4 of us on our vehicle, be joined. A quick rearrangement and a joyful evening commenced, dining on Bean soup, Springbok carpaccio starters and grilled Sirloin steaks. Dessert was Malva pudding, a good SA stalwart. Delicious. To bed.

The Karoo can get quite cold at night, thank goodness for a comfortably warmed chalet. Quite a lot of action today so both were soon fast asleep.

Jeremy watching the sunrise

The early sun lighting the chalet roof-tops and setting the veld a-glow

Wake-up call and we were soon on the deck enjoying a cuppa with the sun edging over the horizon bringing the bush to life. The Malachite Sunbirds were active early, feeding on the dying inflorescens of the Aloes.



Not much time to see and do it all, so off we were to the Cheetah enclosure. Three full days after their last meal, the Cheetah were up early and out looking. They were pretty mobile and quite close to the road, so there was no need to leave the vehicle in order to get closer to them. This walking up to them, is what could happen should these cats be just too far off the road.



Adolph, would take guests closer to just outside of their ‘comfort zone’ so as not to unduly disturb or upset them. This the cats tolerate.



We followed them, watching how alert the general game had become, Kudu barking warily as they caught sight of the predators.



We had followed them from the eastern to the western boundary of their enclosure, then as they had stopped to rest a bit way from the road, we left them, exited the camp and our guide suggested it would be a fair place for the morning coffee break.

Whilst warming up internally on the strong coffee, the cheetah were on the prowl again and came strolling by, on the other side of the fence, totally unconcerned with our off-vehicle activities.



That had been a lovely hour spent with the cheetah, as they so nonchalantly strolled through their domain and now past us.

Back to a full Karoo breakfast and then goodbyes to new friends and a transfer to our waiting car at the reception. One night at this lodge is definitely too short a time to properly assess and report on its game viewing potential. We had had some reasonably  good sightings which should only get better the longer one spent in the reserve.

It is good to see that there are more quality Lodges in this Greater Addo National Park with a reasonable representation of the high profile, and general game animals being returned to their historic areas of habitation.

Photographs by Jeremy and Lana Williamson

Sibuya Game Reserve - Eastern Cape

Sibuya Game Reserve and tented camps, situated in the Eastern Cape and accessed uniquely by boat from Kenton-on-Sea via the Kariega River. This was different !  Lana and I had driven from Durban to near Kenton-on-Sea the previous day in order to be refreshed and ready for the scheduled 12h00 departure by boat  from Sibuya’s safe parking and offices  in Kenton, on the banks of the Kariega River.

Sibuya jetty and boat at the mouth of the Kariega River - Kenton-on-Sea

 We had overnighted at the most delightful nature paradise – Sebumo Tude – Nature’s Lounge, 30 minutes drive from Kenton. Indeed it was paradise ! Relaxing on our deck overlooking the valley and hills we revelled in the abundant birdlife with Knysna Turaco’s flitting from tree to tree along with so many others. Ron and Doris had certainly pulled out all stops to make us comfortable . The 3 course candle-lit dinner was a treat. What a start in preparation for our visit to Sibuya.

We drove into 39 Eastbourne Rd, Kenton-on-Sea at 11h30 – our luggage was hastily dispatched to the back of a vehicle, to be transferred by road to Sibuya’s River Camp and then on, the short distance to Forest Camp by boat.

Sibuya Forest Camp - Main Lodge

 We in turn completed the arrivals procedure, met our fellow guests and guide, Bryan,  and descended to the jetty from where our  cruise to Forest Camp would commence.

This was no speed-boat transfer to the Lodge, rather a leisurely, extremely interesting journey as Bryan pointed out the rather prolific birdlife on the river banks and gave all of us an insight into what Sibuya Private Game Reserve is and was all about.

A special was an African Black Oystercatcher then  Egrets, Plovers, , Goliath Heron, Common  Whimbrel, Fish Eagle, White bellied and Reed Cormorant then Yellow-billed and Black Duck, Cape Teal and Cape Shovelers.What a sight when this mass of quackers took off, their iridescent plumage gleaming.  Some forest species too, Knysna Turaco, Black-collared Barbet, Black-headed Oriole and then a host of LBJ's.

 As we entered Sibuya Game Reserve waters we had our first antelope sighting too, some Impala interrupting their browsing  to nonchalantly gaze at this boatload, as we motored by. The diverse Albany thicket vegetation is really quite beautiful , secreted away in some dense foliage, Bryan pointed out some ancient Cycad.  What a lovely boat ride, there were to be more. Forest Camp is set on a peninsular on the bank of the Kariega River and has no vehicular access, all our game drives would commence with a short boat ride to the vehicle jetty. Really adding another dimension to the normal game drives Lana and I were so used to. We got to know the resident Goliath Heron and Fish Eagles quite well.

 Architecturally designed, Sibuya Forest Camp has great attention to detail in its construction. A very comfortable lounge dining bar area leading immediately out onto an open boma area. 

Then the tents secreted away in the forest.  The owners have taken particular care in keeping their carbon footprint to a minimum. Solar power for the  lighting, fridges and water heating. The lights are supplemented by paraffin lanterns which adds so much to the evening ambience.  I was particularly impressed with the effort  taken to make the elevated board-walk linking the Main Lodge to the tents attractive.

Note the electrified bedside lamps

Not just the normal straight pathway, here the planks have been tapered and shaped to wind through the forest with machined scallops adding to the detail. Strategically placed seating en route on the path and at each tent there is a rustic but comfortable bench. Ours overlooked the Kariega River and the game rich lands beyond.  

 The innovative carpenters had license in the bathrooms too, some really intriguing creations here. Note the Aloe clad basin. Electric lights here in the bathroom and on the bedside tables.

 Whilst on the bathrooms – the solar heated shower was a treat, there was also a lovely old ball and claw bath which I guess Lana preferred and such lovely soaps and shampoo, pure luxury in the bush. So, comfortable beds, airy tents with a paraffin heater to combat the winter night chill, lit when the “turn-down” was done whilst we dined on the delicious Lodge fare.

Our bags had all arrived and were in our rooms when we were shown to our place of repose for the next night or two. Then it was back to the Main Lodge dining area for a drink and the Sibuya light lunch, cold buffet. - light? well with some discipline then.

Venison sosaties et al

All the cooked food is prepared in some  distant kitchen on the property and conveyed to Forest and River Lodges, where the camp chefs add the final touches – different, and this did not compromise the dining in the least - delicious fare. Our lunch today was a Green Garden Salad, Broccoli Surprise (amazing) Layered roast Artichoke and Corn salad (amazing) with hard boiled eggs and fresh cherry tomatoes. Then, tagliatelle pasta Stroganoff and a sweet chilli Grilled Chicken and banana with fresh coriander. Oh and then Homemade baby marrow and creamy corn Quiche. And to end, a traditional creamy Melk tert – (Milk tart). Lana and I creamed it all.! The following day we had a seafood pasta and venison sosaties, magnificent! See above and below.

We started to take on the disposition of the local wild avifauna as we waddled to the boat which would take us to the Game viewing vehicles across the river. All aboard and off we went exploring this 2700 Ha game Reserve.  

The wildlife was particulary relaxed and we had some really lovely close sightings of some white rhino, impala, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest, both the black (white-tailed gnu) and the blue wildebeest (brindled gnu) nyala and bushbuck - excellent species diversity here. All the while Bryan kept us all informed and entertained. Interesting fella is Bryan! Guides are a Lodge's key front man and Bryan is a super ambassador, informative and allowed us time at a sighting, turning it all into a most enjoyable experience... and then there were the other guests on the vehicle, who we rapidly started to get to know, what with the banter and lovely comments. - This was going to be fun ! Bob always with such insightful comments with Lorna, Sue and Tracy adding to the enjoyment of our time together.

The Sibuya Game Reserve is particularly scenic and the owners have created a number of locals where one is able to take advantage of this attribute to the max. Sturdy decks at the end of a steep descent on the very edge of the now almost sheer hill-side, afford panoramic views over the river and bushveld below. One even had strategic vantage over a Fish Eagle nest with chick – special. The roads at Sibuya are amazing, straight up the rocky side of the hills and down the other sider, no wonder the one route is known as "the Roller Coaster" - I might even have gained some respect for the Toyota Land Cruiser game drive vehicles, but I really think it was the inordinate driving skills of our competent guide, Bryan.

Sundowners too were were an occasion, from a chosen spot, with the rolling hills disappearing in the gloaming, a glass of some chilled beverage, some tasty snacks and wonderful discourse from the gang . It was quite exciting  returning to the boat in the dark and taking to the now pitch black waters. Bryan knew the way and we were soon back at the Lodge, with drinks, convivial chatter, warming fire - memories.

Comfortable safari chairs around the glowing embers, that awesome canopy of stars above, then to dinner. As the evening was a tad windy and chilly, dinner alfresco was deemed to be out, so we retired instead to the comfort of the dining area. The windows had been rolled down and secured, making for a cosy  flame-lit banquet, and banquet it was! All of us regaling the events of the day, these became more exciting as the evening progressed.

Lantern lit ambience

Prawn skewers to start, followed by soya and sage Pork Fillet,  as well as Chicken Fillets filled with spinach and mozzarella,  plus delish veggies and ending with a classic Tiramisu! A bit of ‘star gazing’ good nights to all and off to our by now, cosy tent.

At a reasonable 06h45 we met at the Sibuya Forest Camp main lodge for tea, coffee, rusks, camp biscuits, then hit the boardwalk to the jetty where we bundled, all warmly attired in layers of cloth, into our floating transport. The bird and animal life seemed reluctant to break from their place of repose until the sun crept over the hills, then there seemed a scramble for the upper-most branches  or open glades in order to best catch these first warming rays.

A herd of buffalo, a colourful Jackal Buzzard overhead, a view-site. From here we could gaze down on the plains below. Some impala, a crash of white rhino, a herd of eland, a tower of giraffe, Bryan’s terminology was catching. A single warthog broke the collective noun naming theme, as we headed back to the boat - as we sped back to camp - Lady driver this time !  a Malachite kingfisher  raced us to the camp, it was neck and neck for ages - I think the kingfisher won but what an amazing sight, having this powered up vibrantly coloured little bird giving it wing, right next to us and so close for so long. Where was my camera, its just that I was enthralled by the experience. Enjoy the moment. At Sibuya we certainly did, with a little help from Bryan and our fellow guests.

The afternoon game drive brought us to the lion enclosure – these carnivores kept separate from the rather costly buffalo.  They were not too active, as lion so often are - is it a 'mattress' of lion now  Bryan?  Well one has to have the Big 5 you know, even if some concessions need to be made.

Sibuya Game Reserve is technically a Big 5 destination, as we had now seen lion, white rhino and buffalo, we had also seen sign of the elephant herd, but they managed to elude us in the thick forests, and then the leopard, they are here,  but  seem to elude even our resident locals with very occasional sign and sightings. Most likely a legacy of the the local farmer’s historic persecution of these wary cats, which now seems entrenched in their secretive behavior, persisting to today.  Leopard are very rarely seen by guests at any of the Eastern Cape Game Reserves.

Sundowners !

Our boat cruise home to the Lodge this evening was even a bit colder, and we were grateful for  the gesture of two of our fellow guests who had not participated on the afternoon game drive, and were waiting for us with charged sherry glasses for us all – you were so thoughtful - thank you Bob and Lorna.  The cuisine at Sibuya again proved to be excellent at dinner, the resident chef, Welcome, had presented magnificent fare,  and what with the sundowners, the sherry and wine with dinner, I am sure the sound of merriment carried over the river and the plains beyond. The animals seemed shy and retiring the next morning, was it us?

We did get to see a fair few though, and added a half-collared kingfisher to our bird list, one of the more colourful of the species and not that often seen, it is regarded as 'near threatened'. Please to see them thriving here.
Breakfasts at Sibuya are rather  relaxed, or could be the cause of a need for one to relax, as what with cereals, yoghurts, juices and then the full traditional full house cooked fare, we were repleat. Time to leave this particularly lovely, comfortable, friendly haven.

Some of our party were to remain an extra day or two at this delightful retreat, so with fond farewells our cruise to the mouth of the Kariega River with our departing new friends was lovely.

Our bags had already arrived at our waiting car, I must say that all logistics were very well managed. What a pleasant stay and we had some really good game viewing and learned a bit more about this very beautiful  big game area, as it slowly strives to return to the Africa it was before the settlers impacted so on the regions wildlife! Sibuya a good choice.

Photographs by Jeremy and Lana Williamson